If you've noticed your favorite instrument is starting to buzz like a beehive or the notes are choking out when you bend them, you're probably asking how much does it cost to refret a guitar before you take it to the shop. It's one of those maintenance milestones that every serious player eventually hits. Most of the time, you can expect to pay anywhere from $200 to $500, though there are plenty of variables that can push that number up or down.
It's not just a simple "parts and labor" situation like getting the oil changed in your car. Refretting is more like surgery for your guitar's neck. It's a labor-intensive process that requires a delicate touch, specialized tools, and a lot of patience. If you've got a cheap budget guitar, the cost of a refret might actually be more than the guitar is worth. But for a beloved Fender, Gibson, or a sentimental heirloom, it's the best way to make the thing feel brand new again.
Breaking down the price tag
The reason you see such a wide range in pricing is that no two guitars are exactly the same. A standard job on an unfinished rosewood neck is a lot easier for a luthier than working on a vintage neck with delicate binding.
Generally, a "basic" refret on a guitar with a bolt-on neck (like a Strat or a Tele) might land on the lower end of the spectrum, maybe $200 to $300. If you've got a set-neck guitar with neck binding—think a Les Paul Custom—you're looking at a much more involved process, often pushing the price toward $400 or more.
Labor is the biggest chunk of that bill. The fret wire itself is actually pretty cheap, usually costing less than $20 for a set. You're paying for the luthier's expertise in pulling the old frets without chipping the wood, leveling the fretboard, seating the new wire perfectly, and then "dressing" the ends so they don't slice your fingers open.
Stainless steel vs. nickel silver
When you start talking to a tech about a refret, they're going to ask you what kind of wire you want. This is a big decision that directly affects the cost.
Most guitars come from the factory with nickel silver frets. They're standard, they sound great, and they're relatively easy for a luthier to work with because the metal is soft. However, because they're soft, they wear down over time, which is why you're in this mess in the first place.
Then there's stainless steel. Stainless steel frets are becoming incredibly popular because they're essentially "forever" frets. They are so hard that they almost never show signs of wear, and they make string bends feel like butter. The catch? They are much harder on the luthier's tools. Snipping and filing stainless steel can ruin standard nippers and files, so most shops charge an extra $50 to $100 premium for the extra labor and tool wear involved. If you plan on keeping the guitar for life, that extra investment is almost always worth it.
The maple neck complication
If you have a guitar with a maple fretboard, there's a good chance it has a clear finish (lacquer or poly) over the wood. This adds a layer of difficulty to the job.
When a luthier pulls frets out of a finished maple board, the finish often cracks or chips along the fret slots. To do the job right, the tech often has to sand down the fretboard, refret it, and then refinish the entire neck. This isn't just a refret anymore; it's a restoration project. Because of the spraying and drying time involved, a maple neck refret can easily add another $100 to $150 to the total cost.
What about binding and "nibs"?
If your guitar has binding—that plastic strip that runs along the edge of the fretboard—the job gets even trickier. On many Gibson-style guitars, the binding actually covers the ends of the frets (these are often called "nibs").
When you refret a guitar like this, the luthier has a choice: they can either painstakingly cut the new frets to fit between the existing nibs, or they can sand the nibs off and run the new frets over the binding. Most players prefer the latter because it gives you a bit more playing surface, but either way, it's more work than a standard "naked" neck. Expect to pay a bit of a "binding tax" for the extra precision required.
The "while you're at it" costs
Rarely is a refret just a refret. When you pull the old wire out, it's the perfect time to address other issues. Most luthiers will include a basic setup as part of the package, but there are other things that might pop up:
- A New Nut: Since your new frets will likely be taller than your old, worn-down ones, your old nut might be too low. A new bone or Tusq nut usually adds $50 to $80 to the bill.
- Fretboard Leveling: While the frets are off, the luthier will likely sand the fretboard to ensure it's perfectly flat (or has the correct radius). If the board is badly warped, this takes more time.
- Electronics Cleaning: Since the guitar is already on the bench, it's a good time to have those scratchy pots cleaned out.
Is a partial refret an option?
Sometimes, you don't need to replace every single fret. Most players wear out the first five to seven frets because that's where the "money chords" live. If the rest of your frets are in great shape, you might be able to get away with a partial refret.
In this scenario, the tech only replaces the worn ones and then levels them down to match the height of the existing frets. This can be significantly cheaper—maybe $100 to $150—but it's a bit of a compromise. Most pros recommend a full refret if the guitar is a long-term keeper, just so everything is consistent and fresh.
Can you do it yourself?
I'll be honest: unless you have a "beater" guitar that you don't mind potentially ruining, don't make a refret your first DIY project. It requires a very specific set of tools—fret pullers, radius blocks, leveling beams, crowning files, and specialized hammers or presses. Buying a decent set of these tools will cost you about as much as a professional refret anyway.
There's also the risk factor. It's very easy to "chip out" chunks of a rosewood fretboard if you don't use heat properly to loosen the glue. If you seat a fret poorly, you'll have dead notes all over the neck. It's a skill that takes years to master, which is why we pay the pros the big bucks.
Making the decision
So, is it worth spending $300 on a refret? It really comes down to the guitar's value—both market and sentimental. If you have a $200 Squier, it makes more sense to just buy a new neck or a new guitar. But if you have a guitar that you love, a refret is the best way to "reset the clock."
A fresh set of frets can make an old, tired instrument feel like a custom shop masterpiece. You'll find yourself playing more because the guitar isn't fighting you anymore. When you look at it that way, the answer to how much does it cost to refret a guitar isn't just about the dollar amount—it's about how much you value having an instrument that actually plays the way it's supposed to.
Talk to a local luthier, get a quote in person, and don't be afraid to ask about their process. Most of them are gear nerds just like us and will be happy to explain exactly what your specific guitar needs.